top of page
Full Grain_edited.jpg

Why the Grade Matters

Although sometimes mentioned, the leather grade is more often than not absent from the materials information for leather goods - despite their very different characteristics, that are especially important over time.

What the Leather Grade Means for the Life and Look of Your Leather Pieces

Here's what it means for you when you see 'full grain', 'top grain', or 'genuine' leather in the materials description of leather products. When this information isn't provided at all, it's worth inquiring before you buy if you really want to purchase, but it's not a good sign when it's missing: If a business invests in higher quality, higher cost materials, it's in their interest to advertise it.

Full Grain​

Full grain leather is the top-most layer of the hide; it's not only the most durable and long lasting as a result, it also retains the innate variations of the leather, providing an organic, natural look. Full grain leather that has been vegetable tanned will also develop patina with age, a soft sheen that provides unique character and personality. Patinaed leather is highly valued; what's better than something becoming more beautiful with time and use?

Top Grain​

Top grain leather is the layer just below full grain - it's made up of the lower portion of the grain layer and a layer of the corium. It's also sometimes referred to as 'corrected grain'. This is typically done to even the leather's surface for a more uniform look, remove marks or imperfections, as well as to thin the leather. It's done by sanding and polishing the surface of the leather. The resulting leather often looks too uniform as a result, as we expect a natural material like leather to have at least subtle variation. While top grain is a great option for pieces that require thinner leather or more uniformity, and it's lower cost than full grain leather, it doesn't provide the same level of durability as full grain. It often ages poorly in comparison. Top grain leather won't develop patina, and won't last quite as long as full grain. Using top grain leather can often make more affordable options available to consumers. Unfortunately, it's also used by even luxury brands to cut their production costs while their prices remain high, serving only to increase their profit margin.

Genuine Leather​

Many people feel positively about the term 'genuine leather', and while it can simply mean that an item is made using real leather, it actually has a specific meaning in leather work: genuine leather refers to the layer of the hide below the grain, made entirely of the corium layer. This layer is more loosely grained with coarser fibers. As a result, it is considerably less durable and long lasting, and doesn't age well. While genuine leather is a great option if you're specifically looking for something like suede, it's best to avoid it if you're looking for a piece that will offer a lot of durability and last a long time.

JOIN THE CULT!

Thanks for subscribing!

©2023 by Culte du Cuir

bottom of page